Exploring Puerto Rico

Earlier in the year my wife and I determined to make a joint trip to Puerto Rico with good friends of ours. We spent half our time with them in Old San Juan – the original Spanish fortress city - and the remainder in the Southern city of Ponce, the second largest city on the island and the home of Don Q. rum (More on that later). I’d like to share some of our experiences and observations … Si me permites?

Puerto Rico is lovely, green and inviting. By and large Puerto Ricans are friendly and helpful. Even those not fluent in nthe King's language, usually speak a smattering of English . Native foods are protein heavy and vegetable shy. Most popular are mofungo – the national dish consisting of fried plantains, mashed and mixed with garlic paste and chicharrón/crispy pork skin, and empanadas - fried pastry turnovers filled with spiced meat, fish or cheese. The island is dependent on tourism so tourists like us overrun the place. Nevertheless more than once we were still thanked for visiting the island.

To accommodate tourists nearly every stateside fast food joint can be found there. More often than not, Church’s Chicken, Burger King and McDonalds. Note this is not a cheap tourist location. Prices are comparable to the states or more expensive with 12% sales tax on almost everything. Gas varies little between 83 to 87 cents per liter. Food and lodging are more expensive than most guidebooks profess. At the same time, accomodations are both exotic and erratic (We enjoyed a phenomenal  courtyard between our rented rooms but no hot water for over a week).  Food helpings are typically large and tasty. Did I mention alcohol? The leading beer brand is Medalla Light, but for a light beer it is packed with flavor. Still, I preferred the more expensive Magna, a much bolder brew. Of course Pina Coladas and Mojitos can be had virtually everywhere and tasty they are. Beer and liquor can be had in all supermarkets (supermercados) and drug stores (Farmacias) minimarts (bodegas), gas stations (estacións de servicio), etc.

Being a history buff, I was fascinated by Puerto Rican culture as it was shaped by the indigenous Taino, the Spanish conquistadors and for the past 125 years, American colonialism and commercialism. I am contemplating a wargame based on the Taino uprising against Ponce de Leon. Puerto Ricans are eager to engage in conversation and Exchange points of view … loudly with hands waving, but when it comes to statehood vs. Independence, Puerto Ricans are cagey. More than once when asking natives their views on these topics we heard - “It’s complicated.”

Over the course of our time there we drove the length and breadth of Puerto Rico. We toured historical forts in the capital, caves in the North, beaches in the south. We explored native sites in the central highlands and snorkled on the west coast. We experienced an abortive ferry ride on the East coast and spent an afternoon walking the streets of the beautiful old colonial city of San German in the Southwest. Local fauna? Everywhere, everywhere we saw stray cats which are fed and protected, also stray dogs (so many dogs) that are pretty much ignored. Flocks of pigeons inhabit every tourist center, feeding off the visitor's refuse. Iguanas and a variety of lizards roam the settled areas, the parks, the rain forrest and the beaches. Then there are the chickens and colorful roosters. Could be more of them then all the cats and dogs and lizards ... and tourists, put together. 

So, that's my general take on Puerto Rico. It can at times be hot and humid with completely unpredictable rain showers. Mostly it is sunny and bright and always windy along the shore. Speaking of the shore, beautiful beaches abound. Inland the island is quite mountainous which was a surpise to me. With the exception of a handful of well maintained highways, the inland roads are often tortuous with frequent hairpin turns and switchbacks that are not for the faint of heart. That said, the panoramic views can be breathtaking. Towns are typically crowded with side-by-side low one and two story buildings and a scattering of taller buildings. Buildings over four stories are rare outside of large cities. Structures are either in brand-new condition, well kept, or in serious need of repair or decrepit ruins. Again, side by side, in no particular order.

In Old San Juan, a part of the capital city, cheerful, lively Latino music is heard everywhere, in bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, even on the streets. The beat seemed to have everyone moving their hips. Jenny and I were fascinated by the huge Spanish fortresses of Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristóbal, but we were distressed by the amount of litter in the city itself. We chalked it up to unthinking tourists. However, the more we traveled across the island we saw evidence that it was just as much a native problem, Abandoned, deteriorating cars were everywhere and on at least two instances we saw large deposits of abandoned appliances by the side of the road. Don’t get me wrong, Puerto Rico is not so much dirty as it is neglected. 

I Have further details and many pictures I wish to share with you. Monitor my John Poniske FB site to check them out as I post them over the next week or so. Puerto Rico itself is infectious, the people, the sites, the carefree attitude, and of course - the rum. Taken as a whole, Puerto Rico will make you smile. It made us smile!

PS: ALLIED RENTAL / ROUTES did not make us smile. The car we rented was fine, but the customer relations were the worst we have ever encountered. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT rent from this company.